Caravaca de la Cruz, the birthplace of espadrilles that royals and luxury brands desire

From Max Mara to Jimmy Choo, including those worn by Queen Letizia: some of the most exclusive designs are produced in this region of Murcia, between agricultural land and industrial warehouses.

When we talk about Spanish footwear, especially espadrilles, we usually quickly pin the map to Elche (Alicante). But what some may not know is that just over 130 kilometers away is another of our country's main producers. Caravaca de la Cruz (Murcia) is not only recognized among tourists for being one of the five holy cities of Christianity, but also in the fashion world, as this municipality of just 26,000 inhabitants boasts some of the world's best jute artisans. The region has made this natural material its signature for more than half a century, since hemp was banned in manufacturing and esparto grass was gradually relegated to the background. With jute, the companies that have their factories located in this Murcia location produce footwear year-round that not only reaches local storefronts but has also sparked the interest of some of the most important luxury brands, who commission them to create the exclusive designs that we later see in their stores.

To learn about the curious relationship this city has with the international luxury fashion sector, we traveled in May to the Caravaca Footwear Fair, the "Youte Festival," which concluded its eighth edition on June 2nd. Through exhibitions and activities, the event aims to raise awareness of footwear with a designation of origin, and specifically espadrilles, which have been produced for more than 500 years, as Salvador Gómez, director of the Association of Footwear and Espadrille Industries of Northwest Murcia (Calzia), tells us. Why are Caravaca's models so successful? What is it about these espadrilles that makes brands like Max Mara, Jimmy Choo, and even Queen Letizia want them?

A 100% handcrafted work

The process for creating this type of shoe begins in the factory, where enormous rolls of jute brought from Bangladesh are treated, braided, and then manually turned into soles by artisans using their hands. The measurement? By eye. "A machine couldn't do this job; it's a very thick material, and the tension of the rope and its turns have to be controlled," explains AZ Trenzados en Yute, a family business that has received orders from brands like Gucci. Of course, each sole is then tested individually in molds to ensure it matches the size of the foot being manufactured. "The advantage of jute is that it's a durable and sustainable material. All of it is used in the manufacturing process of soles, wedges, etc. It is 100% biodegradable and also recyclable," they point out.

'Made in Spain' conquers luxury fashion

The artisanal manufacture of espadrilles has been associated with this Murcian region since the 16th century, a tradition that has turned its artisans into experts, which is why brands contact them directly. In fact, it's very likely that if you've purchased jute espadrilles or sandals at stores like Zara or Massimo Dutti, they were made in Caravaca de la Cruz. "We receive orders from the Inditex group, and we've also worked with Mango and Polo Ralph Lauren," explains Conchisa, a Murcian footwear brand known for its colorful and original designs.

If we're talking about luxury, we have to mention Casteller. With a level of secrecy in the manufacture of its footwear, which we witnessed during a visit to its factory in Caravaca de la Cruz, this company, founded in 1993, has won over European consumers—its main market—with its espadrilles, and increasingly, Asian customers as well. Its client portfolio includes brands such as Etro, Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Jimmy Choo, and Zimmermann.

"Working with luxury brands is very nice, but also complicated because it requires a lot of commitment and there's no margin for error. If a shoe breaks or the material you're working with is damaged... you can't afford that. We're talking about espadrilles that will later sell for 400 or 700 euros in stores. The manufacturer is responsible for that price," says Ginés Bernal, son of Casteller's founder and creative and general director.

He recalls an anecdote: Armani commissioned Casteller to create a run of crocodile-skin shoes—in these cases, the brand provides the material and the design. “In the factory, a pair cost 1,000 euros, in the store, 6,000. Imagine the care that must be taken when handling such a delicate material. I spent all day guarding the factory. You can't afford to fail and discard a shoe like that.”

Espadrilles that also conquer the 'royals'

In 1978, Calzados Picón was born in this same Murcia region, a company dedicated to the manufacture of espadrilles. In 2020, it experienced a real boom when Queen Letizia appeared in Cantabria wearing one of its designs. A blue espadrille with crisscross straps, which was specially created to match the dress she wore that day. Since then, the monarch has become a loyal customer of this company, whose founder, Sánchez Picón, tells us that they even have the shape of her foot to personalize the footwear. Those espadrilles became one of their most sought-after models; even Princess Leonor wanted a replica made, which she wore during Infanta Sofía's confirmation. Infanta Elena and Victoria de Marichalar have also been seduced by this shoe from Caravaca de la Cruz, which, especially in summer, becomes an all-purpose wardrobe staple.

This article was first published in the magazine Hello!